Tuesday, 14 June 2016

A masterclass, a multi-pitch and a mountain

The climb wasn't hard, and I had done it before, but as we had planned our weekend, my current complete lack of confidence had morphed the 'bouldery start' described in the book into some kind of holdless monstrosity from which I would inevitably fall. Standing looking at it, my doubts surfaced again, but as I considered the options, some of Dave MacLeod's words from a masterclass a few hours earlier popped into my head, 'push yourself a little bit out of your comfort zone with each session'. Saying nothing to the others, I started to methodically rack up.

Ladies on a ledge

I don't think I have enjoyed a lead climb as much as that in a long, long time. Where there was a minor difficulty, I tried to think about protection, then thought carefully about the next few moves and when I got a little nervous, I repeated 'comfort zone' a few times, breathed and moved. At one point, standing up on a solid foot jam, I was even thankful for grit. I did not cry, I did not hyperventilate, I was not rooted to the spot for an hour  - I looked, I thought, I placed gear, I climbed.

The Simple Chick and the Original Climbing Partner sorting gear at the top of the second pitch

Reaching the top of the pitch and bringing the others up, there was something quite brilliant about being crammed on a ledge with The Original Climbing Partner (in a rare guest appearance) and the Simple Chick, trying hard to not get ropes, slings and climbers in an irreversible raffle, and there was something even better about being on a route where we each had a pitch to lead. 65m of bliss.

Having ruminated for a couple of days, I think what I mainly took from the masterclass was the idea that a little bit more effort could make a massive difference to your climbing and for me, as someone who struggles with balance and moderation, this struck a huge chord. I know I am undynamic, but I now see a way that I can begin to address this, without going hell for leather, breaking myself or scaring myself shitless. I know my finger strength could be better and perhaps buying a fingerboard would also provide a welcome break from the monotony of writing my thesis and one that doesn't involve food! But the session also taught me that if I got a fingerboard and did a little bit with it, this little bit would still make a big difference to what and how I can climb - it does not matter yet that I cannot do a one arm pull up!

Long Legs listens in

I am uber busy and my life feels like it is in constant perpetual motion, but it doesn't feel like I would add to the pressure and stress I always seem to be under by doing some small things differently. While I am climbing outside a lot, it would still be good to get down the bouldering wall once a week and to try a footless problem while I was there, trying to push that comfort zone just a little in a session, particularly indoors, doesn't seem outlandish, getting back into running, even just a couple of times a week is better than being welded to my desk chair, getting up and hanging for 7 seconds to alleviate PhD boredom is better than eating yet another bit of toast, but taken together these things would make me a little bit stronger, a little bit fitter, a little bit less scared and someone who is stronger, fitter and a tiny bit braver climbs better than one who is not.

And the mountain? My first time up Ben Nevis - from the campsite via the Ledge Route - what a weekend!

The Original Climbing  Partner and the Simple Chick enjoy Ledge Route on Ben Nevis - next time Castle Ridge!

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